Gaillac AOC
One of the oldest appellations in France, and one of the most confounding: here they make everything — white, red, rosé, dry, sweet — and bubbles by a method practised almost nowhere else.
One of the oldest appellations in France, and one of the most confounding: here they make everything — white, red, rosé, dry, sweet — and bubbles by a method practised almost nowhere else.
The Gaillac vineyard is one of the oldest in France: planted by the Romans, shaped by the monks of Saint-Michel abbey, and shipped to Bordeaux down the Tarn from the Middle Ages on. The AOC itself dates from 1938 for whites — among the very first in the country — and was extended to reds and rosés in 1970. Today, around a hundred independent growers and three cooperatives share 73 communes on both banks of the Tarn.
If Gaillac makes such different wines, it comes down first to its soils. The area splits into six terroirs, three of them dominant:
Three more peripheral sectors complete the picture — Cunac, Cabanès and Lavaur. This diversity of soils, rare across such a small area, is why almost anything is possible here.
Few regions make a range this wide: taut dry whites, sweet whites, late-harvest wines (Ondenc dried by the Autan wind), reds for keeping, rosés, and sparkling wines. About ten different products under one name — confounding, perhaps, but plenty to explore.
This is Gaillac's sparkling signature, known here as the "méthode gaillacoise", and one of the oldest ways of making bubbles. The principle: a single fermentation, started in the vat, finishing in the bottle — with no added sugar or yeast. It's Mauzac's own sugar that makes the foam. More rustic and more alive than the Champagne method, and far older.
An appellation within the appellation, born the same day as the AOC, on 21 March 1938: a demanding dry white, reserved for a few villages on the slopes above Gaillac. So confidential that only around fifteen hectares are produced. The top of the basket, in white.
All of it rests on a handful of native grapes — and is best tasted with the winemakers of the Gaillacois.
Gaillac AOC runs across 73 communes on both banks of the Tarn, from the Cordais plateau in the north to the edge of Lavaur in the south. A few landmarks of the area.
An appellation that makes dry, sweet, red and sparkling wines is rare. In Gaillac, it's been normal for eighty years.