Place Rahba Kedima
The square of spices and apothecaries, in the middle of the souks: pyramids of saffron and paprika, dried herbs, straw baskets and hats, and herbalists who sell cumin as readily as Berber remedies. Small, alive, more trade-driven than tourist-driven. A good way into the souks.
History & context
Rahba Kedima - ‘the old square’ - is the square of spices and herbalists, in the middle of the souks. Around an open space, rare in the medina, the stalls line up: cones of saffron, paprika, cumin and ras el-hanout, dried herbs, baskets and straw hats.
The apothecaries (attarine) sell as much cooking spice as remedy: medicinal plants, black soap, kohl and a whole aisle of the Berber pharmacopoeia. On the corner of the square, the Berber auction - a former slave and object market - has turned over to carpets and objects.
It is one of the liveliest squares in the souks, and more trade-driven than tourist-driven: a good way in for anyone wanting to make sense of trade in the medina.
Saffron in pyramids and remedies in jars: the square where the medina does its shopping.
What to see - the highlights
The spice stalls
Cones of saffron, paprika, cumin and ras el-hanout, and the herbalists (attarine) with their lined-up jars.
The Berber apothecaries
Medicinal plants, black soap, kohl, oils and remedies from the traditional pharmacopoeia.
Basketwork and hats
Baskets, straw hats and mats, around the edge of the square.
The Berber auction
In a corner, the former auction hall - once a market of the auctioneer's voice - now given over to carpets and objects.
When to go
Stalls at full spread and the square at its busiest.
Some stalls start packing up.
Market open all the time.
Visitor tips
In the morning, when the stalls are at full spread.
Buying saffron without checking. A lot of cheap 'saffron' is dyed safflower.
- A square for spices, and also for remedies. The apothecaries sell herbs, black soap and kohl.
- Saffron is priced by the gram. A price that looks too low often hides safflower.
- In the corner, the Berber auction is worth a look, even without buying.
Location & access
In the middle of the souks, between Souk Semmarine and the Berber auction, a few minutes from Jemaa el-Fna. On foot only.
