Merzouga desert
The real Sahara out of Marrakech, the postcard one: the Erg Chebbi dunes, close to 150 metres high, a bivouac night in the middle of the sand, camel at sunset then sunrise, and a starry sky as you no longer see near towns. The exact opposite of Agafay, which is a stone desert at 45 minutes: here, real dunes - but at 560 kilometres, so eight to ten hours of road a day. Hence the golden rule: three days minimum, never two, or you spend the entire trip in the car. The road is not wasted for that - it crosses Aït Ben Haddou, the Dadès and Todra gorges, the Rose valley. Reservation: summer crushes (over 40°C, burning tents), winter freezes at night, and the camel ride is short and bumpy. Come in autumn or spring, bring cash, and pick a camp that cares for its animals.
Merzouga is a small village set on the edge of Morocco’s most famous sand desert, the Erg Chebbi, in the far south-east, nearly on the Algerian border. Here, and not in the Agafay stone desert close to Marrakech, is where you find the real great golden dunes: a sea of sand close to 150 metres high, shifting from pink to orange to gold across the day. The price you pay is the distance - around 560 kilometres and long hours by road from Marrakech - which imposes a three-day circuit at the least. But the way, via the High Atlas, Aït Ben Haddou and the southern gorges, is a journey in itself, and the starry night at the foot of the dunes is one of those you do not forget.
Many travellers extend the experience by pushing on to Fes after Merzouga rather than heading back to Marrakech: one of Morocco’s great itineraries. The format and the solid offers in both directions are detailed in our Marrakech - Merzouga - Fes circuit.
On your own or on a tour?
What to expect
About half a day. Times are indicative.
Marrakech → Dadès valley
Tizi n'Tichka pass (2,260 m), Aït Ben Haddou (UNESCO ksar), Ouarzazate, Rose valley. Night at Boumalne or Kelaat M'Gouna. ~6h of road.
Dadès → Merzouga
Dadès and Todra gorges, Tinghir, fossil workshop at Erfoud, then Erg Chebbi. Camel at sunset and bivouac night in the dunes, dinner and Berber music.
Sunrise on the dunes
The big moment: the sand catching fire at first light, before breakfast at camp.
Back to Marrakech
The longest stage: 8 to 9h of road to get back. Expect a tiring day.
What you see there
The Erg Chebbi dunes
A stretch of real sand dunes, some thirty kilometres long, climbing to close to 150 metres and shifting colour from pink to gold with the hour. This is the real sand Sahara, the great dunes you picture.
The bivouac night
A night in a Berber tent in the middle of the dunes, dinner around the fire, musicians and, most of all, a sky studded with stars, far from any town light. Two levels: standard camp or luxury tent with bathroom.
Camel at sunset and sunrise
The camel ride to camp is short (often 20 to 50 min) and bumpier than you might imagine. The moment stays fine, at sunset and sunrise. Pick a camp that owns and cares for its own animals.
The road and its stages
Distance is part of the experience: you cross the High Atlas, follow the Dadès and Todra gorges, cross the Rose valley and the palm groves. Aït Ben Haddou, on the way, deserves a visit on its own.
What is included
Good to know
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