Zat valley
The Zat valley is a valley for those the Ourika lets down. Where the Ourika is green, famous and lined with restaurants, the Zat has stayed off the map: a High Atlas valley south-east of Marrakech, where the wadi comes down from Toubkal slopes between pisé villages, barley terraces and walnut trees. Almost nothing touristy here, and that is the whole point: a mountain souk on Wednesday at Tighdouine, a potters' village opposite, trails to walk hamlet to hamlet, springs including a sparkling one. In return, let us be plain: few facilities, a road that ends in a track and nothing organised on site. It is an outing for walkers and the curious, not for a ready-made day - better with a hiking guide or a driver used to the tracks. In exchange, you touch a Berber mountain still intact, only ninety minutes from town.
The Zat valley is one those guides skip. East of the Ourika, less green and far less busy, it climbs up a wadi coming down from Toubkal slopes, between pisé villages, barley terraces and walnut trees. No fitted-up waterfall, no waterside café, no car park: tourism stopped before entering, and that is precisely what makes its worth. The valley lives on a Wednesday rhythm, when the Tighdouine souk gathers the mountain folk come down on mule. The rest of the time, it belongs to its people, its Talatast potters and a few walkers. An escape for those wanting to see a Berber mountain still true, ninety minutes from Marrakech - provided you accept the track, the walking and the absence of organised comfort.
On your own or on a tour?
What to expect
About half a day. Times are indicative.
Departure from Marrakech
Ouarzazate road (RN9) south-east, to Aït Ourir, the small market town at the region's gate.
Climb up the valley
Leave the RN9 for the P2016: the road follows the Zat wadi, between olive groves, terraces and pisé villages, up to Tighdouine.
The Tighdouine souk (on Wednesday)
The weekly market: livestock, vegetables, spices and tools, where villagers come down from the altitude hamlets to stock up.
The Talatast potters
Opposite, on the other side of the wadi, the small potters' village of Talatast, known for its hand-shaped earthenware.
Walk along the wadi
A hamlet-to-hamlet walk, between terraces and walnut trees, along the water and the springs - including a sparkling one.
Back to Marrakech
Down via the P2016 and the RN9, back in late afternoon.
What you see there
The Wednesday souk at Tighdouine
The valley's date: every Wednesday, the Arbaa Tighdouine souk gathers Zat villagers, often coming down on mule. Livestock, earth produce, spices, blacksmiths and barbers: a real mountain market, no souvenir stalls. The best day to come and the beating heart of the valley.
The Talatast potters
Right opposite Tighdouine, on the other side of the wadi, Talatast village lives off pottery: local earth shaped and fired to know-how handed down the generations. Access via a trail. A chance to see the potters at work, off the town's showroom workshops.
The Zat wadi and villages
The valley walks as much as it looks: along the wadi, trails link the pisé hamlets, between barley terraces, walnut and fig trees. You meet shepherds, children, women in the fields - an inhabited pastoral Berber mountain, worlds away from valleys fitted up for tourism.
The Tighdouine springs
Around Tighdouine, several natural springs come up, including a sparkling one, waters known in the region for their qualities. A curious refreshing stop, in the shade, between two walks.
Good to know
Frequently asked questions
Where is the Zat valley?
What is there to see in the Zat valley?
Zat valley or Ourika valley?
Can I visit the Zat valley without a guide?
What is the best period for the Zat valley?
Photo credits
- Le ksar d'Aït Ben Haddou au petit matin - © Adrian Farwell · CC BY 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons · source