The Tanneries of Marrakech
The leather district, at Bab Debbagh: open vats where the skins soak in lime and dye, in a sharp smell. Striking from above, harsh up close. Worth seeing, but on your guard. The touts who 'offer' a sprig of mint and 'explain' the site then demand a heavy tip.
History & context
The tanneries have occupied the Bab Debbagh district for centuries, in the north-east of the medina - debbagh means tanner. The skins are treated with methods that have not changed: soaking in lime vats, softening, dyeing with natural pigments, drying on the roofs.
The work is hard and the smell sharp. It is one of the medina’s rawer sights. The best viewpoint is from above, from the terraces of the leather shops that ring the vats.
Access is open, but the place also lives off tourism. Touts ‘walk with’ the visitors, sprig of mint in hand, and wait for a tip. Set the rules from the gate.
Striking from above, tough up close: worth seeing, sprig of mint under the nose and hand on the wallet.
What to see - the highlights
The tanning vats
The lime and dye pools where the skins soak, lined up in the open and seen from the surrounding terraces.
Leather at work
Tanning in lime and pigeon dung, then scraping, dyeing with natural pigments and drying on the roofs.
The view from above
The leather shops' terraces give the best viewpoint, and the best distance from the smell.
Bab Debbagh
The historic gate of the tanners' quarter, in the north-east of the medina, apart from the main souks.
When to go
Activity at its peak and the light enters the vats.
Heat and smell become hard to bear.
Trade running all the time. More bearable outside heat spells.
Visitor tips
In the morning, for the activity and the light.
Following an off-the-street 'guide'. That is where the tip trap starts.
- Access is open, but touts 'offer' a sprig of mint then demand a tip. Turn it down from the start if you do not want to pay.
- The best view is from a leather shop's terrace. You will be invited up. Agree the price, or the 'no-purchase' terms, before going up.
- The smell is strong. The sprig of mint under the nose is not a myth.
Location & access
In the north-east of the medina, near the Bab Debbagh gate, apart from the main souks. On foot (20 to 25 min from Jemaa el-Fna) or by taxi to the gate.
